Kolkata

I arrived in Kolkata Sunday night, and have been staying at the flat of a friend of Melissa's. As I sit here, I can hear the sounds of Kolkata outside. Horns blaring, engines reving, people shouting - in lots of ways it so closely resembles every other Indian city that I've experienced. It just seems the same. But, I think, under the surface, this city is different.

Here's some of the differences that I know of so far:

1. This city is crowded. It's not the most populous city of India (Bombay wins that distinction with 17+ million people) but it is still the most congested. Wikipedia said that it's road space, with population density factored in, is 6%. Bombay has 17% road space and Delhi has 23%.
2. When Melissa and I flew into Kolkata and caught a taxi to her friend's apartment, the air seemed heavy, thick and dark. I don't think it was just the smog (although I think that was a large part of it!) It seems like this city has a feeling of heaviness, or despair. Listening to some of my friends' reflection on the struggles of this city has also helped shed light on the clear struggles and issues of the people they know here.
3. Some of the other cities I've visited have a definite 'Western' flavor to them. A few years ago, I visited Bangalore and Chennai. Now, in comparision, they seem much more 'metro' and blended with Eastern and Western values. Kolkata is more traditional. I've seen fewer women wearing western dress (jeans and tops) and more wearing the long shirts and drapped scarves. This is a place of stronger Indian values.
   
4. Similarily, Kolkata just isn't a tourist spot like other Indian cities are. There are places in the city where you would find more westerners shopping, but not as many and not as many 'attractions' either. I've asked my friends where I can go to really see the city, and there just aren't monuments or places or attractions. The city is the streets, the small shops, and the 15 million people dwelling here...
   

Melissa's Goodbyes

I knew when I was planning this trip that I would be stepping into another world. Not just the Indian world, with all of its particular disctinctions (like speedy rickshaw drivers in insane traffic in noise-ridden cities) but also the world belonging to Melissa for the past year. The past 3 days in Mumbai have been an upclose glimpse into her world, her work, her friendships, her life...and also a time of watching her say goodbye to many of those things.

Her closet in her room is full of goodbye gifts from friends...A beautiful pashmina scarf, a salwar suit from her co-workers, the complete 3-season set of 'arrested development - her favorite tv show...I sense the fullness of her time here. I've seen the love and tears on the faces of her friends. They spoke words of affirmation and deeply rooted tenderness for her. In a year of living here, Melissa has lived it fully and lived it well.

And now she's moving on. And it is a privilege to be a small part of this transition.

Today (in 3 hours) we leave for Nepal. Seeing Kathmandu, backpacking in the Himalayans near Pokhara, watching the sun rise over the highest peaks in the world - that is what's in store for us for the next week and a half.

Goodbye, Mumbai. Hello, Nepal.

Safe and Sound

Today I woke up in Mumbai, India. The long-awaited adventure is finally coming alive. :) Yesterday was full of air travel, lots of sitting, airline food, falling asleep under a comfy airline blanket, waiting, watching movies on the plane, finishing a good book...and now a day and a half later, I'm sitting in Melissa's apartment in Mumbai.
The weather is warm, but not hot. A perfect 80 degrees. Apparently January is a great time to visit. The crows woke me up this morning - they're constantly making noise. I hear children playing and vendors hawking food and someone sweeping outside right now. I have yet to venure outside, but I think I will soon. There's much to experience...

Tomorrow

My to-do list today:
-pack for India
-make sure my banks know I'll be overseas for a month
-get some $ from the bank
-call my friend Lacy to see how my dog is doing without me
-copy my passport
-pick up some last minute toiletries at the store
-play dolls with my nieces

....and then I leave for the airport tomorrow!

Bathroom on board

One of my sisters has 3 little girls, all the same age...triplets is what most people call them. But I kinda feel like that lumps them together too much, or that it names them according to how many they are. You don't hear people saying, "Well, look at that single over there, just smiling at his momma..." Anyway, I have these beautiful nieces that are just beginning to learn how to use the potty. And I'm learning that making the most of the moment is key in potty training. Cuz I already knew that when you gotta go, you gotta go.

So we're leaving Bob Evans today after lunch (somewhat in a hurry, cuz their baby brother is really tired) and Kate had to go. We had already loaded up all kids and adults in the Suburban, which is no small task, and there was no looking back. Good thing their mom had packed a potty-to-go seat! 1 minute later, we were pulling out of the restaurant, Kate was feeling good, and everybody knew not to kick over the potty seat.

Who knew that Suburbans come equipped with a bathroom?

Away for a bit

It seems like the past month has passed rather quickly. And now I am home for the holidays...away from West Virginia, relaxing with my family, playing with my nieces and nephews (a new nephew just born on Sunday too!), and enjoying the strange feeling of not having any work to do today...or tomorrow.

Hopefully, I'll blog a bit more throughout this Christmas break. There is always much to feel and say and experience during time away from routine and normal living. But, then again, I like living in the moment and I may not blog any time soon, so I can fully enjoy this season of rest.

I have been anticipating this Christmas break for the past 12 months. Not just because it's a good long time with my family, but because it will be even more than that. On January 3rd, I'm heading overseas for a month to visit Mel. The good times will roll, my friends...I can't wait!

More about the trip to come...

The thing of fire

brrrr....it's a chilly 12 degrees outside. As I try to get my coal stove burning hot this morning, I've learned a few things about myself:

1) I enjoy a challenge. This morning, the challenge involved adding coal to my stove without smothering the fire, so my house would warm up quickly. Other challenges in life aren't always so straightforward or simple. (What about when I'm not connecting well relationally with someone and the challenge is to keep loving them? Do I enjoy it then? hmmmm...)

2) I have a tendency to get anxious. I want things and answers and solutions and progress and results and movement (and a warm house) without the waiting and hoping and working and struggling and trying and failing and hoping again. Working to get my fire going strong has finally produced results - my house is warming. (How easy has it become to focus on the struggles or the problems that seem to be unsolvable...in my Appalachian community or in my own life...)

3) I don't mind asking for help. I called my friend Lacy for his advice on making the fire burn hotter, and he gave me some great tips. He's the kind of friend who would help me out any time I needed it, no matter what. And he has, countless times. I can't imagine living in McDowell County without him. I think my self-sufficient tendencies are slowly changing. And this is a good thing.

4) I love celebrating. My house is warm - I think that's cause for a party (maybe a 'drink coffee and read a good book' party, but a party nonetheless). I need to celebrate the good, small things in life more. A warm house, a faithful friend, a good cup of coffee, a phone call to my sister, a day to relax...