Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Kolkata

I arrived in Kolkata Sunday night, and have been staying at the flat of a friend of Melissa's. As I sit here, I can hear the sounds of Kolkata outside. Horns blaring, engines reving, people shouting - in lots of ways it so closely resembles every other Indian city that I've experienced. It just seems the same. But, I think, under the surface, this city is different.

Here's some of the differences that I know of so far:
  1. This city is crowded. It's not the most populous city of India (Bombay wins that distinction with 17+ million people) but it is still the most congested. Wikipedia said that it's road space, with population density factored in, is 6%. Bombay has 17% road space and Delhi has 23%.
  2. When Melissa and I flew into Kolkata and caught a taxi to her friend's apartment, the air seemed heavy, thick and dark. I don't think it was just the smog (although I think that was a large part of it!) It seems like this city has a feeling of heaviness, or despair. Listening to some of my friends' reflection on the struggles of this city has also helped shed light on the clear struggles and issues of the people they know here.
  3. Some of the other cities I've visited have a definite 'Western' flavor to them. A few years ago, I visited Bangalore and Chennai. Now, in comparision, they seem much more 'metro' and blended with Eastern and Western values. Kolkata is more traditional. I've seen fewer women wearing western dress (jeans and tops) and more wearing the long shirts and drapped scarves. This is a place of stronger Indian values.
  4. Similarily, Kolkata just isn't a tourist spot like other Indian cities are. There are places in the city where you would find more westerners shopping, but not as many and not as many 'attractions' either. I've asked my friends where I can go to really see the city, and there just aren't monuments or places or attractions. The city is the streets, the small shops, and the 15 million people dwelling here...

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Melissa's Goodbyes

I knew when I was planning this trip that I would be stepping into another world. Not just the Indian world, with all of its particular disctinctions (like speedy rickshaw drivers in insane traffic in noise-ridden cities) but also the world belonging to Melissa for the past year. The past 3 days in Mumbai have been an upclose glimpse into her world, her work, her friendships, her life...and also a time of watching her say goodbye to many of those things.

Her closet in her room is full of goodbye gifts from friends...A beautiful pashmina scarf, a salwar suit from her co-workers, the complete 3-season set of 'arrested development - her favorite tv show...I sense the fullness of her time here. I've seen the love and tears on the faces of her friends. They spoke words of affirmation and deeply rooted tenderness for her. In a year of living here, Melissa has lived it fully and lived it well.

And now she's moving on. And it is a privilege to be a small part of this transition.

Today (in 3 hours) we leave for Nepal. Seeing Kathmandu, backpacking in the Himalayans near Pokhara, watching the sun rise over the highest peaks in the world - that is what's in store for us for the next week and a half.

Goodbye, Mumbai. Hello, Nepal.

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Safe and Sound

Today I woke up in Mumbai, India. The long-awaited adventure is finally coming alive. :) Yesterday was full of air travel, lots of sitting, airline food, falling asleep under a comfy airline blanket, waiting, watching movies on the plane, finishing a good book...and now a day and a half later, I'm sitting in Melissa's apartment in Mumbai.
The weather is warm, but not hot. A perfect 80 degrees. Apparently January is a great time to visit. The crows woke me up this morning - they're constantly making noise. I hear children playing and vendors hawking food and someone sweeping outside right now. I have yet to venure outside, but I think I will soon. There's much to experience...

Friday, January 2, 2009

Tomorrow

My to-do list today:
-pack for India
-make sure my banks know I'll be overseas for a month
-get some $ from the bank
-call my friend Lacy to see how my dog is doing without me
-copy my passport
-pick up some last minute toiletries at the store
-play dolls with my nieces

....and then I leave for the airport tomorrow!